Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its profound food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always defined its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children do not want to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these stories and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
